What is Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol (pronounced buh-KOO-chee-all) is a powerful, naturally occurring antioxidant found in the seeds and leaves of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, also known as the "Babchi" plant. Used for centuries in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine, it has recently gained significant attention in modern skincare as a gentle, plant-derived alternative to retinol.
Unlike retinol, which is a derivative of Vitamin A, bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol. This difference in chemical structure is key to its excellent tolerability profile, making it suitable for almost all skin types, including those with sensitivity.
How Does Bakuchiol Work?
Bakuchiol is often referred to as a "functional analog" of retinol because it works through similar pathways to achieve comparable results, but without binding to the same retinoid receptors in the skin.
Scientific studies have shown that bakuchiol influences gene expression in skin cells, specifically targeting the pathways that regulate the production of collagen and other key proteins in the extracellular matrix [2]. By promoting the synthesis of these structural components, bakuchiol helps to maintain the skin's firmness and elasticity.
Furthermore, bakuchiol is a potent antioxidant with significant anti-inflammatory properties [3]. This dual action helps to neutralize free radicals that cause premature aging and calms the skin, reducing the redness and irritation often associated with more aggressive active ingredients.
Key Benefits for Your Skin
The primary benefits of incorporating bakuchiol into your routine are centered on its ability to combat the visible signs of photoageing and improve overall skin health:
Reduces Fine Lines and Wrinkles
Clinical research has demonstrated that bakuchiol is comparable to retinol in its ability to significantly improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and overall photoageing [1]. It achieves this by boosting collagen production, leading to a smoother, more refined skin texture.
Fades Hyperpigmentation
Bakuchiol helps to inhibit the pathways that lead to melanin production, making it effective at reducing the appearance of dark spots, sun damage, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, resulting in a more even skin tone.
Improves Firmness and Elasticity
By stimulating the production of collagen and elastin, bakuchiol helps to restore the skin's bounce and resilience, addressing concerns of sagging or loss of contour.
Anti-Inflammatory and Gentle
One of bakuchiol's most significant advantages is its superior tolerability. It provides powerful anti-aging results without the common side effects of dryness, peeling, and photosensitivity. This makes it an ideal choice for those with sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea.
Who Should Use Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a versatile ingredient that can benefit nearly everyone.
- Individuals with Sensitive Skin: If you have tried retinol and found it too irritating, bakuchiol is an excellent, gentle alternative to achieve similar anti-aging and skin-smoothing effects.
- Those Seeking a Retinol Alternative: Bakuchiol is a perfect choice for those who prefer plant-derived ingredients or are looking for a non-irritating option that can be used during the day.
- Users of Other Actives: Because of its gentle nature, bakuchiol pairs well with other active ingredients. For instance, you can layer it with the Skinometri Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum to maximize hydration and plumpness, ensuring your skin barrier remains strong while you target signs of aging.
How to Incorporate Bakuchiol into Your Routine
Bakuchiol is typically found in serums and moisturisers. It is a highly stable ingredient, meaning it can be used both morning and night.
Application
Apply a few drops of a bakuchiol serum to clean, dry skin before your moisturiser. The Skinometri Bakuchiol Night Serum is specifically formulated to deliver a potent dose of this active ingredient, working overnight to renew your skin.
Pairing and Layering
Bakuchiol is non-irritating and works synergistically with many other ingredients. To lock in the benefits and support your skin barrier, follow your bakuchiol application with a nourishing cream like the Skinometri Ceramide Barrier Moisturiser. This combination ensures you are getting powerful anti-aging benefits while maintaining optimal skin health.
Because bakuchiol is not known to cause photosensitivity, it can be used in the morning. However, as with any skincare routine, always finish your morning application with a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
References
- Dhaliwal, S., Rybak, I., Ellis, S. R., Notay, M., Trivedi, M., Burney, W., ... & Sivamani, R. K. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. *British Journal of Dermatology*, 180(2), 289–296.
- Chaudhuri, R. K., & Bojanowski, K. (2014). Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. *International Journal of Cosmetic Science*, 36(3), 221–230.
- Puyana, C., Chandan, N., & Sivamani, R. K. (2022). Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: Systematic review of the literature. *Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology*, 21(12), 6199-6207.