The Science of Panthenol: Pro-Vitamin B5 for Skin Barrier Health
What is Panthenol?
Panthenol, often referred to as Pro-Vitamin B5, is the alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid, a naturally occurring B-complex vitamin. It is a highly effective and well-tolerated ingredient used extensively in dermatology and cosmetic science for its moisturizing and soothing properties. When applied topically, panthenol is readily absorbed into the skin where it is converted into its active form, pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5) [1]. This conversion is key to its biological function in the skin.
How Panthenol Works in the Skin
The efficacy of panthenol stems from its role as a precursor to pantothenic acid. Pantothenic acid is an essential component of Coenzyme A, a vital enzyme involved in numerous metabolic pathways, including the synthesis of lipids [2].
By supporting the production of fatty acids and sphingolipids, panthenol plays a crucial role in maintaining the integrity of the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin. This mechanism allows it to function as both a humectant and an emollient. As a humectant, it attracts and binds water to the skin, significantly boosting hydration. As an emollient, it helps to smooth and soften the skin's surface. Studies have shown that panthenol-containing formulations can produce a significant decrease in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), a key indicator of a healthy skin barrier [1].
Key Benefits of Panthenol
Enhanced Skin Barrier Repair
Panthenol is highly valued for its ability to accelerate the natural repair process of the skin barrier. By providing the necessary building blocks for lipid synthesis, it helps to strengthen the skin's defense mechanism against environmental stressors and irritants. Clinical research has demonstrated that dexpanthenol-containing creams significantly enhance skin barrier repair following irritation [2]. To support your skin's natural defenses and benefit from this barrier-strengthening effect, consider incorporating the Skinometri [Ceramide Barrier Moisturiser] into your routine.
Deep Hydration and Moisture Retention
As a powerful humectant, panthenol draws moisture from the atmosphere and locks it into the skin. This deep hydration not only plumps the skin but also improves its elasticity and softness. Its moisturizing effects are particularly complementary to other humectants like hyaluronic acid. For an intensive hydration boost, layering a product like the Skinometri [Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum] before your moisturiser can maximize the water-binding benefits of both ingredients.
Soothing and Anti-Inflammatory Action
Panthenol possesses notable anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. It has been shown to reduce skin redness (erythema) and irritation, making it an excellent ingredient for sensitive or compromised skin [2]. Furthermore, its regenerative capabilities stimulate epithelialization and increase fibroblast proliferation, which are critical processes in wound healing and tissue repair [3].
Who Should Use Panthenol?
Panthenol is a universally beneficial ingredient due to its gentle nature and fundamental role in skin health. It is particularly recommended for:
- Individuals with dry, dehydrated, or flaky skin who need a boost in moisture retention.
- Those with sensitive or easily irritated skin seeking a calming and anti-inflammatory ingredient.
- People with a compromised skin barrier due to over-exfoliation, harsh weather, or dermatological procedures.
- Anyone looking for a gentle, non-stripping cleanser that supports the skin barrier. The Skinometri [Gentle Hydrating Cleanser] is formulated to cleanse effectively while preserving the skin's natural moisture.
How to Incorporate Panthenol into Your Routine
Panthenol is versatile and can be found in various product types, from cleansers and toners to serums and moisturisers. It is safe for both morning and evening use.
For maximum benefit, look for it in leave-on products like serums and creams, where it has more time to penetrate the skin and convert to pantothenic acid. As it is highly compatible with almost all other skincare ingredients, it can be easily integrated into any existing routine. Its soothing properties make it an ideal ingredient to pair with potentially irritating actives like retinoids or AHAs, helping to mitigate dryness and sensitivity.
References
- Camargo Jr, F. B., Gaspar, L. R., & Maia Campos, P. M. B. G. (2011). Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. *Journal of Cosmetic Science*, *62*(4), 361–370. [PMID: 21982351](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21982351/)
- Proksch, E., & Nissen, H. P. (2002). Dexpanthenol enhances skin barrier repair and reduces inflammation after sodium lauryl sulphate-induced irritation. *Journal of Dermatological Treatment*, *13*(4), 173–178. [PMID: 19753737](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19753737/)
- Gorski, J., Proksch, E., Baron, J. M., Schmid, D., & Zhang, L. (2020). Dexpanthenol in Wound Healing after Medical and Cosmetic Interventions (Postprocedure Wound Healing). *Pharmaceuticals*, *13*(7), 138. [PMC: PMC7407203](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7407203/)